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There was always a special desire to see Rajasthan – a land famous for its unique mix of geography, culture, feudalism,  forts, palaces and stories of legendary courage. Finally come December 2013 we were able to make it happen.

Rajasthan spoils for choice and whilst it is only 1 of the 28 states in India it offers a lot more in proportion. North to South there is the Jaipur, Ajmer, Chittorgarh and Udaipur belt. Western Rajasthan has Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Mount Abu and eastern Rajasthan has Bikaner. Covering all in one go with families and kids was going to be demanding on everyone as well on time, so we picked one. Udaipur, Jaipur, Ranthambore followed by return via Agra.

I decided that it had to be a tour combing the best way of getting around Rajasthan, which if anyone is doubt are the Indian railways. One of the best things about India, take my word for it.

This is the route we planned,

  1. Chandigarh – New Delhi Shatabdi
  2. New Delhi to Udaipur – Mewar Express (Overnight journey)
  3. Udaipur to Jaipur – Udaipur-Khajuraho express (Overnight journey)
  4. Jaipur to Agra – Jaipur-Agra Shatabdi
  5. Agra to Delhi – By road (on new expressway)
  6. Delhi to Chandigarh – Chandigarh Shatabdi

The kids just loved the trains, and could not stop bouncing around the sleeper berths. Come start of every trip, there was the buzz of going somewhere and never mind early morning or late evening the kids did not waver one bit. Well, one thing taken care of!

Reaching Udaipur at 7 am in the morning we got started early in our round starting with the City palace and boat tour,City palace was built by Maharana Udai Singh in the 16th century AD. It is an imposing structure on the banks of Lake Pichola and makes for stunning visuals day and night. The interiors of the palace museum unfortunately are not as well maintained as one might expect and tourist rush was a bit tough to get through with. Anyway, take the positives and leave the could-be-betters behind.

City Palace Udaipur from Lake Pichola

City Palace Udaipur from Lake Pichola

There was a postcard with the view below that I asked my cab driver to show us for real. Interestingly it turned top be a secluded spot on the edge on an old temple and through a path only a local would know. But the sight made for a ‘paisa-vasool’ viewing. One could sense how Udaipur can stands still calmly time brushing it by and adding layers of mystique and aura to its long history. 

City palace Udaipur from opposite bank

City palace Udaipur from opposite bank

Bagore kee haveli in Udaipur features traditional dancing in the evenings and performances from different parts of Rajasthan and cultural elements. Its a must see to start getting into the flavour of things and fortunately we made it in time to the performance of the night with ‘balcony’ seats, albeit stage-side verandah seating normally reserved for artists, because they had run out of space and guests come first in Rajasthan!

Rajathani cultural performance at Bagore Ki Haveli

Rajathani cultural performance at Bagore Ki Haveli

Shilp gram is an annual festival combining handicraft exhibits from 7-8 different states, cultural shows all around the same time. The atmosphere was great, with tradition on show from multiple states, I felt a sense of wonder at how many cultures did this country manage to hold. That in itself is a huge wealth to have more than the material wealth.

Kids delight on a camel ride in Udaipur!

And a horse ride too!

And there was a royal horse ride to cover as well!

Jaipur our next stop, the capital and largest city in Rajasthan is splendid in many ways.

The iconic Hawa mahal is surprisingly smaller than the images suggest, a feat of architectural illusion in a way. Go for bargaining in the shops around Hawa Mahal for the fun of it. Dont be afraid of starting with ridiculous price points. It is almost a kind of social banter that the shopkeepers seem to revel in as much.

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

Ranthambore, our next stop and about 180 KM from Jaipur is home to one of India’s most successful tiger reserve. We took our taxis from Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur and then onwards on the forest touring gypsies. Tiger sighting proved elusive but it was a different experience of its own. Stepping out into the buffer area forest and coming face to face with the wild (albeit no tiger) was a moment in itself. The silence of the wild is something that can put everything else in perspective.

On Ranthambore safari

On Ranthambore safari

The national bird itself!

The national bird itself!

There is a variety of views on when is the best time to visit Ranthambore. A number of views on internet suggested winter time (Nov to Feb) as the best but the local view I found was that May to July times are the best, when water holes are scarce and staying put near a water hole on your safari gives you a great chance at spotting tigers.

Coming back to Jaipur, we had a day more to explore and lots to do, but just not enough time. Jaipur has perhaps one of the best handicraft marketplace I have seen anywhere. Reasonable (with a bargain) and ages old. Mind the traffic imbroglio of trucks, three wheelers, scooters, bikes, cycles, rickshaws, mule carts, buses and cows all moving in a direction of their preference never mind where the road goes. But that is part of the Indian fun or on a more daily basis, how India works.

There is more to Jaipur by way of Forts, the Nahargarh fort, of Rang De Basanti fame, and Amber fort the largest and holding a vast reserve of history of Jaipur’s beginnings, battles for control, opulence of the Rajputana and the proud signature of the Aravalli crest bordering Jaipur. Eclectic stuff. Time had run out for us to explore these forts on the inside but we did manage to make it to the Amber fort light and sound show, that in all, left us puffed with pride for our Indian heritage.

Amber fort Light and sound

Amber fort Light and sound

Bidding farewell to Jaipur next day and the excellent hospitality we boarded the Jaipur- Agra Shatabdi express and landed in Agra a good 3.5 hours later. Agra by contrast to Rajasthan’s has the old world Mughal feel to it. Still decadent in many parts, the winter fog hung low over the broad Yamuna banks but despite its winter density, could not hide the size and scale of the Taj.  Viewing in clear sunshine would anytime have been welcome, but Taj Mahal is one of the things that is worth looking at any which way.

The day brightened up by the time we got there and first sight, the general impression was – ‘What could drive someone to build something like this!’. Stories and controversies abound to the building of the Taj but keeping that aside one can appreciate why the Taj Mahal is a wonder of the world.


Needs no introduction!

Needs no introduction!

Day 2 of Agra was for Agra fort. One of the most famous forts in India, and almost the Mughal family home starting with Akbar, Shah Jahan, Jehangir and Aurangzeb. It was interesting to see the elements of the forts around their indulgences for pleasure, a consequence one wondered of a life with little responsibility an unlimited wealth and power. Things that monarchs could get away with then!

Next to the Taj

Next to the Taj

Well! that was the India of 15th to 18th century, now a vastly changed land, a vibrant, secular, aspirational, and a prospering democracy.  Good and not-so-good residues of the past remain as they would anywhere else, but all adds to the flavour of India. All said and done, in 7 days we had had a full treat of tradition, history, culture, wild, food and hospitality a thousand years old and yet timeless.

Of course every trip deserves its credits. In this case, special thanks to A) envisioning and planning by the author B) superb execution of planning by my brother in law Dr. Sunil Gambhir and C)  to India for the great heritage its holds timelessly!

Top tips :

For Ranthambore – Book your safari Ranthambore well in advance here Ranthambore is divided into 8 zones. Of which zones 1-5 have the maximum tiger sightings.  Zones 6,7, 8 are set aside and although form part of the tiger habitat, tiger sightings there are rare.

Getting to Ranthambore from Jaipur  for a day trip – Take the train rather than the road. There are several trains from Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur like Ananya express, Intercity express. A 2 hour journey by train and then head to Sawai Madhopur Forest Office for the safari pickup (about 2 km from the railway station).

Handicraft shopping in Jaipur – go to Bapu bazaar, Nehru bazaar, Hawa Mahal market – all are within walking vicinity of each other. Booth like shops in red/pink painted brick selling just great stuff.

For Taj – do not get engaged into taking the numerous camera men along. They claim to be experts but are no better than anyone else who can hold a camera with stable hands and click. Avoid them, put your cameras aside and take in the Taj calm and slowly.  You can stare at that building sitting afar in wonder for a fair while. The interior of the Taj now has restricted viewing and though we queued for a fair while to go through it, watching it from a distance, away from the crowds is more rewarding.

And last but hardly the least, take the trains wherever you go. The remarkable Indian railways will make getting around a pleasure in itself!



Shimla – the queen of hills – I have oft enough memories of family holidays spent in Shimla, a summer resort of once and now booming capital of Himachal Pradesh.  Overlooking the superheated plains of North west India and Punjab,  Shimla was always and is a welcome retreat. A pleasant 3 hours drive up into to  the lower Himalayas, by road or the famous narrow gauge toy train with a 100 tunnels. Main memories of trip –  walks up the mall, wooden handicraft markets, bustling Tibetan markets, pashmina and woolen specials and Raj style guest houses and coffee shops. Always spurring of a nostalgia there.

How many days would I spend there on a holiday now – 3

Goa – Wow! what a fantastic combination of sun beach, beer and culture. I have been there thrice, as about a 13 year old, a 22 year old and then another 10 years later.  Each time has been special in its own way. Interestingly although travel advisories might urge getting away from the Northern beaches, those are still the most vibrant of the lot and ones I have been to.


How many days would I spend there on a holiday now – 7

Delhi – Oddly, yes. A big hot, dusty plain encrusted with concrete chumps as it looks from the air. But as much as is the history to it, is the charactered rendered upon it through years of rule by one or another. Lutyen’s New Delhi was always remarkable as a child, and a few decades later having seen the world a bit, it seems more remarkable, in the endeavour, design and achievement.  Holidays in Delhi were frequent with my Dad’s best  friend’s family, so a bunch of lads growing up together and making do with what was the urban sprawl for imaginative games – all good, nice fun that added character to the holidays.

How many days would I spend there on a holiday now – 5

Bombay, no Mumbai – Hmm, I think it was about every 2-3 years, starting with a long train journey, on the Superfast, Frontier mail, later the Rajdhani and of course my first flight. Just relaxed and fun family holidays with my maternal uncle’s family. Incidentally he was (and is) notable figure in the Indian film industry. Occasional brush ins with the luminaries of the Indian film industry added to the delight. (Did that encourage a career in film industry? No).  It was a strikingly different urban scape, the delicious ghee topped chapatties and pickle with yellow dal, finely chopped aloo gobi and of course the super ginger tea! Not too mention a trip to Khandala in a 12 seater van that had been restored after an unintended dip at the Mud beach!

How many days would I spend there on a holiday now – 4-5

I normally keep a seperation of concerns between my travel blog and my ‘general’ blog, but starting the other day out of a writer’s block on the latter I ended up more or less on talking about one of the things I love about travel – Trains. Here is more..

Position this – A) A country with 400 National parks, 70 wildlife sanctuaries, 4000 year old History, the greatest mountain range in the word, the best whitewater rapids in the world, a subtropical coastline that is an envy of the world, and pearly islands that can compete with the Hawaiis of the world, a topography with practically every kind of variation earth has to offer, cuisine that has pervaded the nook and corner of the world, and much more.., also the largest democracy in the world – gets a paltry 4.4 million tourists a year.

And B) an island which is less than than 0.01% of the above country in size gets 7.5 million.

A) India B)Singapore.

Why? See for some more and you might wonder India should be as much compelling destination as any other, isnt.

No single reason , but the Government by large should hold the credit for this (lack of) achievement.  In 1960’s and Tourism in India was ranked somewhere as 126th or 127th on the priority list of industries for development, lower than the industry development of lighthouses!

Awareness has grown, and perhaps the priority, but even in the current context, poor project and funds management at the ground level, lack of accountability, political problems, infrastructure arent helping turn things around.

I was just reading P Chidambram’s essays in his book “A view from outside” in which he cites N.R. Narayana Murthy’s assertion that the Taj Mahal, and what its symbolism represents a $20 Bn opportunity for India and employment. Simple math as quoted in the book – there are 200 Mn couples in developed nations. Even if 10% of them decide to spend their anniversary by the Taj in the typical 2 night, 3 day model, that at about a $1000 spend per couple can be a $20 Bn opportunity. Imagine adding to that a cruise by a resurrected Yamuna by Taj, then some more perhaps.  And then add up all the features mentioned earlier, each is a huge opportunity by its own right.

Pipe dream perhaps. Its not about a desire to do it,  only when things get down to ground it becomes a game of oneupmanship, egos,  red tape, sloth, jurisdictions – in corporate speak – misaligned KPIs and  institutionalized mediocrity.  As things stand no reform in the present government either seems headed in a direction, to suggest things will be any better in near or far future.


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